Caring for Gear
After a weekend (or weeklong) camping trip the last thing you want to do when you get home is more work. But the trip’s not over when you get in your car and back on your phone. Caring for gear—both personal and shared—is the critical final step of any outing.
Even though outdoor gear is designed to get dirty, it shouldn’t stay that way. Dirt gums up moving parts, decreases insulation, compromises performance, and shortens the lifespan of your equipment. Grit can wear down the fibers in fabrics. Sweat and body oils can lead to bacteria, mold and mildew. Gross.
Here’s how to do it:
When you get home, start by unpacking all your gear. Put the all the things you used in one area, and all the things you didn’t in another. Starting with the things you didn’t use, ask yourself if it’s an item you really need to pack next time. Maybe there’s a reason you didn’t use it. Briefly inspect each item for wear, missing parts, etc. before putting it away. This is also a good time to check things like first aid kits for expired medication.
Now, move on to the pile of stuff you did use. These items probably see a lot of use, so it’s extra important to maintain them well.
Clothing
Most of your clothes can probably be washed in the washing machine. Follow the care instructions on the label. Brush of any loose dirt first. If they’re muddy, prewash them them by hand to avoid damaging your machine.
Outerwear
Technical gear like rain gear is usually made from performance fabrics like GORE-TEX. Brands like The North Face and Patagonia have their own competing fabrics. Waterproof gear also has a durable water repellent (DWR) finish that should be renewed regularly. If raindrops bead up and slide off your jacket, that’s the DWR working. If the fabric absorbs drops it's time to renew with a product like Nixwax. Read the manufacturer’s instructions specific to your material.
Hiking Boots
Make a habit of brushing dirt and soil off hiking boots before you head back home between to avoid transport seeds between ecosystems. At home, gently brush the uppers with a nylon brush to get rid of dirt and debris. Scrub the soles so that the spaced between the treads aren’t filled in. Once or twice a year wash your boots with boot cleaner or a solution of dish soap and water. For mold, use a solution of 80% water / 20% vinegar. Always rinse all cleaning solutions away with clean water. Never put boots in the washing machine or dryer and never use heat to dry them. Taking out the insoles will help them dry quicker.
Tip: Store boots in a well ventilated place that doesn’t have large temperature variations.
Sleeping Bags
You don’t need to wash your sleeping bag after every trip, but you should was it once or twice a year. How you wash your bag depends on its material and fill. Read and follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully. If machine washing, only use front-loading washers. Top loading washers have an agitator column in the middle that your bag will get twisted around and probably ruined.
For drying, you want as large a dryer as possible to help the insulation regain its loft. Use low heat and add a couple of clean dyer balls or tennis balls to help break up clumped insulation. If you air dry, lay the bag flat instead of hanging—hanging a wet bag can stretch the outer material.
Tip 1: Make your bag last longer and stay cleaner by using a bag liner, sleeping in clean clothes, and airing out your bag at camp before packing it up.
Tip 2: That large sack your sleeping bad came in is for storage. Never stror your bag in a compression sack. It compressed the insulation, which reduces its ability to keep you warm. Hang it up or store it in a large mesh or breathable fabric bag.
Sleeping Pads
Just keeping your sleeping pad dry and free of obvious dirt is probably enough. If you have an inflatable pad it’s a good idea to dry out the inside after a trip. Even small amounts of moisture (from your breath when inflating or temperature changes overnight) can promote mold growth.
Tip: Use a hair dryer on low and hold it directly against or over your pad's valve to inflate it, then defate and repeat.
Backpacks
Your backpack can go longer than most of your gear when it comes to cleaning, but taking care of it will extend its life and value. Empty it after every trip. Open up all the pockets and compartments and shake out the dirt. If needed, vacuum out any stray debris. Spot clean stains with mild dish soap and a soft bristle toothbrush. Rise using cold water and a sponge. To deep clean, remove all straps and hip the hip belt (take a photo first so you know how to put them back). Wash them separately. Fill a bathtub about 6 inches with lukewarm water and a small amount of unscented Castile soap. Submerge your pack. Swish it back and forth. Gently sponge any spots or stains. Drain the tub and repeat the process 1-3 times with clean, cold water to rinse. Air dry by hanging it upside down with all the compartents open
Tip: When your pack is dry, repack it with your 10 essentials.
Hydration Bladders
Probably the most overlooked item in terms of maintenance is your hydration bladder. Bacteria loves warm wet environments, which pretty much describes a bag full of water. Empty and dry your water bladder after each trip. A few times per year you should also wash it.
The high tech way: Use specialized cleaning tabs and a reservoir cleaning kit.
The DIY way: Fill the reservoir half way with warm water. Add a teaspoon each of baking soda and white vinegar. Let sit for 20 minutes. Rinse thoroughly and let air dry. Instead of a long hose cleaning brush, tie a knot on one end of a length of paracord. Drop the other end through the tube then pull the knot through to squeeze out any gunk.
Tents
Brush dirt off the outside, paying particular attention to the bottom. Open the zippers and sweep, shake, or vacuum dirt and crumbs. Be sure it is totally dry before storing. Deep clean your tent once a year by hand. REI has step-by-step instructions for how to clean a tent.
Mess Kits & Cookware
Even if you washed it at camp, re-clean your mess kit, cookware, and utensils at home. In most cases you can wash them like you would your regular dishes and cookware, but keep these tips in mind:
Clean plastic by hand or on the top rack of your dishwasher
Never put aluminum in the dishwasher. It reacts with the phosphates in dishwasher detergent and will turn black
Titanium is generally dishwasher safe but hand washing is still the better option
Never put double-walled (insulated) items in a dishwasher
Camp Stoves
Camp stoves need to be cleaned regularly. Start by removing any food residue or grease using a mild soap and water. For stubborn buildup, a gentle scrub with a non-abrasive sponge should do the trick. You can also use a commercial degreaser if necessary.
Inspect the fuel line and connections for signs of wear or damage. Replace them if necessary. Store your stove in a clean, dry place away from moisture and extreme temperatures.
Hard Gear & Electronics
Gently remove dirt and grime with a soft cloth or toothbrush. Power up rechargeable devices. If your device uses alkaline batteries and you’re not to going to use it for a while, remove them. Batteries can leak and the acid can damage your equipment.
How-To Guides
Tips & Tricks
Keep it dry. Save the silica gel packets that come with other products and toss them in your storage bins to reduce moisture.
Replace it. If you’re missing something replace it right away. You’ll probably forget about it and be left scrambling the next time you go camping.
Lubricate Zippers. Zippers need to be cleaned and lubricated to function well. Use a purpose-designed lubricant …or just run a pencil lead over the teeth!
Sap Stains. Stains from sap can be pre-treated by dabbing them repeatedly with a cotton ball soaked in rubbing alcohol until the sap is gone.
Grass & Blood Stains. Pretreat with Greased Lightning. Let it set for about 10 minutes then immerse the clothing in a bucket of hot water (as hot as you can put your hand in without burning) and a scoop or two of Oxy Clean. Agitate and let it soak overnight, then wash as normal.
DIY hose cleaner instructions